Has it really been over two weeks since we came home? I was fortunate enough to have a great daughter and her boyfriend so my house was clean and the yard work was done. There was even some food in the refrigerator. Could not have asked for more. It took about a week for my cat, Gia, to trust that I was only leaving for a short period. I'm not sure she will ever feel the same way about a suitcase. She used to love climbing into an empty one....now it means someone is going away.
I am constantly asked "what was your favorite?" I usually have the same response.. that I found each new place "my favorite" and could not pick just one. It started in Big Sur with our cozy cabin and high cliffs with crashing waves and rocks below to the city on the Bay, San Francisco, to the valleys and vineyards of Sonoma, Napa and Alexander, to the redwoods in Northern California, the Cascade Mountains and family in Oregon and a few of the Ring of Fire volcanoes in Washington state. It is truly a beautiful and inspiring land we live in. I cannot even begin to express how fortunate I feel to have been able to make this trip of a lifetime with Bob by my side. I'm not sure what his take will be on it, but I found that we could be in a car for almost 30 days together, sleeping in different cities and staying in different hotels for many nights and still share our familiar teasings, laughter and sarcasms. I guess 33 years together is a testament to being able to stand one another, for the most part, in closed quarters and open spaces and think that we'd like to do another trip like this again!
As we neared the end of our vacation, we both realized that it was time to go home. I missed my house, my family and my friends. It would be great to relive the trip over and over again with them.
I eventually had to return to work, while Bob was able to start his retirement for real. I am envious of his mostly leisurely life now, but my time will come.
Thanks to everyone who shared this experience with us and put up with my endless pictures sent from my phone. The other pictures actually taken with a camera will post shortly to a website for all to enjoy.
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
Saturday, June 11, 2011
Doughnuts and Snow
Portland, the "City of Roses" (10,000 rose bushes at the International Rose Test Garden), also known by the name "Bridgetown" (10 bridges that link the west and east sides of the city) was the city we would fly home from. We only had about a day-and-a-half here and did not have any specific itinerary for this small urban city. The city, which spans both sides of the Willamette River, is divided into distinctive neighborhoods, each one noted for its specialty. It has more breweries per capita than any other city in the world. The Pearl District neighborhood contains the brewery district and we spent both dinner hours in that area. It also has multiple parking lots containing the infamous food trucks. This was a fun lunch as we walked back and forth viewing the many ethnic offerings and deciding on Brazilian, Thai and Greek. We rode the public transportation (it's free!) and I even rode the Portland Aerial Tram which is one of the newest additions to the city's mass transit system. It covers 3,300 feet in three minutes and connects the Oregon Health & Science University with the South Waterfront neighborhood. Portland is considered one of America's most bicycle-friendly cities. We have found that most of the West Coast cities are bike friendly, with well-marked bike lanes and courteous bikers, pedestrians and fuel-driven citizens. Unlike San Francisco, the city blocks in Portland are compact and walkable, and it doesn't take long to get anywhere on foot. We were moving a little slower in this city and found that is was quiet and pretty much shut down by 9 in the evening. That was OK with us. We found a great little boutique hotel on our now favorite website, Hotwire.com, and just took it easy. No visit to Portland would be complete without a visit to the eccentric Voodoo Doughnut. Some may have seen Anthony Bourdain or the Food Network showcase some of their wacky pastries. We went there specifically for the Maple Bacon Bars that are actually covered in two slices of bacon. An hour wait was worth it (according to me at least).
Our last two days would be spent in Olympia, Washington and home to Bob's cousin Susan and her husband, John. Bob had not seen Susan in many years (the year of the last visit could not be exactly determined) but they enjoyed going over family stories and viewing pictures from their childhood. Susan has lived on the West Coast since her pre-teen years but still has a sister in our area so hopefully it won't be so long between visits.
We were spending the night in Susan's lake community, A-frame home and had a nice walk around her neighborhood. The next day would be a trip to Mt. Rainier, about an hour or so from her home. After a breakfast of Maple Bacon Bars, we headed towards Rainier. It was misty and lightly raining. The chances of viewing the mountain top were slim but we grew excited about the trip as we made our way up the mountain road within the Park. The roads are designed to make the least impact on the landscape. They lead through old-growth forest and into subalpine areas. Our final destination in the park was Paradise. It is the most heavily visited area in the park. It stands at almost 5,000 feet elevation. The average snowfall in Paradise is 680 inches and this past winter brought 900 inches of snow. There were spots here and there by the side of the road that still had some snow patches but as we climbed in altitude the snow became more evident and deep. We passed a snowplow going the other way and there was fresh snow on the plow! The temperature outside dropped from about 58 degrees to 37 as we arrived at the main visitor center. We had our picture taken next to a 20-foot wall of snow. Not a drift, not plowed snow, just a 20-foot wall of snow. It was beautiful. It was way too foggy to view the mountain but we didn't care. We had now seen just about everything on this trip.
Our last two days would be spent in Olympia, Washington and home to Bob's cousin Susan and her husband, John. Bob had not seen Susan in many years (the year of the last visit could not be exactly determined) but they enjoyed going over family stories and viewing pictures from their childhood. Susan has lived on the West Coast since her pre-teen years but still has a sister in our area so hopefully it won't be so long between visits.
We were spending the night in Susan's lake community, A-frame home and had a nice walk around her neighborhood. The next day would be a trip to Mt. Rainier, about an hour or so from her home. After a breakfast of Maple Bacon Bars, we headed towards Rainier. It was misty and lightly raining. The chances of viewing the mountain top were slim but we grew excited about the trip as we made our way up the mountain road within the Park. The roads are designed to make the least impact on the landscape. They lead through old-growth forest and into subalpine areas. Our final destination in the park was Paradise. It is the most heavily visited area in the park. It stands at almost 5,000 feet elevation. The average snowfall in Paradise is 680 inches and this past winter brought 900 inches of snow. There were spots here and there by the side of the road that still had some snow patches but as we climbed in altitude the snow became more evident and deep. We passed a snowplow going the other way and there was fresh snow on the plow! The temperature outside dropped from about 58 degrees to 37 as we arrived at the main visitor center. We had our picture taken next to a 20-foot wall of snow. Not a drift, not plowed snow, just a 20-foot wall of snow. It was beautiful. It was way too foggy to view the mountain but we didn't care. We had now seen just about everything on this trip.
Friday, June 10, 2011
Playing Catch Up
After settling in at my brother’s house, we were anxious to play catch up and plan our week together. Even though too much time has passed since we were all together, we laughed and told stories as if the time apart had not been so long.
For the next few days we hiked some of their favorite spots. Bald Hill Natural Area is one of the favorites of Corvallis residents and is several miles of dirt and gravel foot trails that circle and climb to the summit of the hill. We took a more challenging hike up and the view of the Willamette Valley was beautiful and well worth the steep grade. The next day took us to Finley Refuge and the Woodpecker Trail. Again, very lovely with lots of green moss and forest floor growth. We didn’t see any woodpeckers, but our short walk turned long when we circled around a lake and continued to walk before deciding to turn around and head back to our original route. We did see some type of heron on a small lake and watched him through our binoculars for a while waiting for him to reach down and catch his dinner.
My sister-in-law had made plans for the 4 of us to drive up into the Willamette National Forest for an overnight visit to Belknap Hot Springs lodge. The forest is 1.6 million acres of high mountain country in the Cascade Mountain range. When we arrived it was pretty chilly and I was glad Wally had brought an extra pair of gloves (Eagles logo and all). We hiked the Deer Creek trail and saw more beautiful Douglas Fir trees and the floral bounty on the forest floor. Kai is a botanist, and hiking through the woods with her is an experience. It can take a little longer, but is well worth the knowledge gained. Her genuine love of all living plants and their purpose to other plant life and humans is contagious. After the first hike, we made our way to the lodge. Mineral hot springs are naturally produced by the emergence of geothermally heated groundwater from the Earth’s crust but are, in reality, too hot (this one being 198 degreees) so the mineral spring water is pumped into a large swimming pool and mixed with more temperate waters. The lodge sits directly on the McKenzie River, which was literally raging with snow melt from a very generous winter in the mountains. Our room was a very large, two-bedroom suite with living room and full kitchen. We soaked (twice that day) in the hot springs pool, cooked buffalo burgers in our kitchen and play a rousing game of Settlers of Catan. Only one glitch occurred when Wally and Kai locked their adjoining bedroom door with the keys inside. It was after hours and no one was at the front desk. The ensuing story will be a fun one to re-tell when we get together but the outcome was the night manager was called and opened the door for them.
The next day was a hike to two waterfalls. The weather these two days could not have been more beautiful. Sunny and warm. The first was the Sahalie (or “Heaven) and the second the Koosah (or “Sky”) Falls. Again, due to generous snow melt these falls were spectacular. The water of the McKenzie is a beautiful aquamarine color. They are 100 feet and 70 feet high, respectively. The trails were easy and passed through old growth cedars growing on a lava flow. We then travelled to an area my brother had not previously been, Clear Lake. Clear Lake, the “lake born of fire” is the headwaters of the McKenzie River and was formed 3,000 years ago when lava reached the river and backed up water to form a lake. The original forest that had lined the river banks was submerged. Remnants of some of these submerged trees still stand under 120 feet of water and are visible from the trail or by boat. The nearly freezing temperature of the lake makes it unsuitable for swimming. There was a trail around the lake, approximately 4 miles. At first it looked like the trail would be similar to most forest trails; beautiful, but already seen numerous times. As we worked our way around the lake it became evident this was not going to be similar. The other side of the lake traverses an old lava flow and the terrain became distinctly different. Underfoot was no longer soft and muddy, but sharp and rocky and black lava rock filled the hills and trail. There were many areas where blacktop had been poured so passage was possible. It would go from difficult to soft over and over again as we made our way around the lake.
The plan had been to drive up and over a pass to view a well-known set of mountains, the Three Sisters. We stopped at the Ranger Station and we were told that the road, which had been closed due to a 19-foot snowdrift, had been reopened that morning but there were no guarantees that it would be passable in our Honda Civic. The Three Sisters are three volcanic peaks in the Cascade Range in Oregon, each one exceeding 10,000 feet in elevation. They are the 3rd, 4th and 5th highest peaks in Oregon. Plans changed a little and we decided to drive to the town of Sisters where we enjoyed a dinner of Copper River salmon, a treat not usually available. We then took the scenic route home (everyone by now should know what scenic route means) and arrived late that night and went immediately to bed. Unpacking could wait until the next morning. The Cascade Mountain range did not disappoint. The mountains in this range are part of the Ring of Fire, a string of 452 volcanoes stretching 25,000 miles in a horseshoe shape. The Ring of Fire is a direct result of plate tectonics and the movement and collisions of plates. About 90% of the world’s earthquakes occur along the Ring of Fire. They are very large and most times barely visible due to the climate of fog and mist. Bob explained that our local mountain range, such as the Pocono mountains, are much older and worn down; therefore, not as massive in height. Also, they are not volcanoes.
Bob and I had not made any real plans for when we were leaving, but decided that Saturday would be the day. We spent the morning at the Corvallis farmer’s market, did a little shopping, and went home to pack it all up for the next adventure. The Columbia River Gorge. This stop was not on our original itinerary but had been suggested to us by Bob’s cousin. We were travelling north to Portland and cousin Susan in Washington anyway, so decided to make this unscheduled stop.
The Columbia River Gorge was formed from fiery volcanoes, massive landslides, tremendous upheavals and thundering torrents of water. Cascadian volcanic eruptions about 40 million years ago laid down lava beds and mudflows (lehars) up to two miles thick. Remnants of those flows can still be seen in the Gorge cliffs, carved by floods about 15,000 years ago. Unimaginable forces of water up to 1,200 feet deep swept through the lava beds, carving a corridor that formed the Columbia River and its towering cliffs. This also created one of the world’s greatest concentrations of waterfalls. Mt. Hood, Oregon’s tallest peak at 11,245 feet, is also the celebrity of this area and was very visible on our drive north due to clear weather. Many of the very high, infamous peaks are not visible often due to fog and clouds in the Pacific Northwest. We arrived late in the afternoon on Saturday and decided to do a quick overview of the area and each of the 5 notable falls and then come back the next day and do some hikes and further exploring. We stopped at each of the aforementioned falls, took pictures and continued about 40 miles more to a hotel on the Columbia River. It was incredibly beautiful and the cliff formations and the size of the Columbia River once again went on my “favorites” list. Sunday was again a warm and sunny day. The Pacific Northwest has experienced a very wet spring and cool temperatures, so the citizens of this part of the country get out in full force when the weather turns warmer and drier. We learned this the hard way. After a great breakfast at our hotel, sitting outside along the Columbia River, we headed over the bridge into the state of Washington (which is just on the other side of the river) and decided to drive down the Washington side until the scenic falls started and then make our way back over to the Oregon side. Once on the Oregon side we were met with throngs of cars and people taking advantage of the weather. It was a total traffic jam at a popular outdoor spot and we decided that we had seen what we came for and continued on to Portland.
Monday, June 6, 2011
Raindrops Keep Fallin' On My Head
We left California and the plan was to drive up the coast on a mostly "scenic highway" to a town called Newport. We would get there in time to have dinner at a nationally known brewery, Rogue, and then I would drive the remaining hour or so to my brothers home in Corvallis. It started lightly raining when we hit the Oregon border and this was a sign of things to come. The word Scenic Highway actually means winding, narrow and slow moving roads. While most of them are beautiful, they can be challenge for the driver. It can also challenge the back seat passenger who may suffer a slight case of car sickness. Rogue Brewery was fun, The building sat beneath a bridge and looked as if it had been there a very long time; weathered by the wind and moisture. It was definitely a bare-bones eatery and it was too late to take any kind of a tour. After a dinner of brewery fare, including root beer for me, we headed back out into the drizzle and I now drove in a direction we had not taken in weeks, East...
Corvallis, a small community located on the Willamette River between the Coastal Mountain range to the west and the Cascades to the east, has been home to my brother and his wife for about a year and a half. For the almost 40 years prior, they lived on about 13 acres in the Tucson desert. The difference in climate and community is drastic and takes some adjustment. All my previous visits had been spent in dry desert with no humidity and endless "good" hair days. Corvallis lives up to its Latin name, Heart of the Valley. It is home to Oregon State University and it reminded me of West Chester with a slightly more West Coast feel of being laid back and home to like-minded people concerned about environment, alternate energy sources, natural foods and intellectual stimulation. Old hippies is a term of endearment.
We arrived around 5 and Bob and I were so glad to see Kai. It had been too long. It didn't take long to remember her sparkling eyes and gentle laugh. We schlepped all of our bags into their home. It was nice to be in a home setting. Using a stove, opening a refrigerator, having a meal at a dining room table and going into a yard were things I didn't realize I missed. Since we had been sitting all day in the car it was only natural that we needed to walk off some of that stiffness. Wally had warned me before our trip that they do things outdoors, regardless of the weather, and to bring rain gear. I am glad we did. Our first walk through Corvallis was just a neighborhood walk. One they obviously have done numerous times. It was getting dark and was raining pretty good by then. Our walk was not cut short, though, and the moisture actually felt good. Everything is so green and the flower species are abundant and well-manicured. We stopped by the alternative food Co-op where Wally and Kai do most of their food shopping. After picking up some essentials it was time to head home. I was pretty soaked by this time and was amused at how I never really enjoyed going out into the rain until tonight. I have come to terms with the fact that I won't be coming home with a vacation tan.
Corvallis, a small community located on the Willamette River between the Coastal Mountain range to the west and the Cascades to the east, has been home to my brother and his wife for about a year and a half. For the almost 40 years prior, they lived on about 13 acres in the Tucson desert. The difference in climate and community is drastic and takes some adjustment. All my previous visits had been spent in dry desert with no humidity and endless "good" hair days. Corvallis lives up to its Latin name, Heart of the Valley. It is home to Oregon State University and it reminded me of West Chester with a slightly more West Coast feel of being laid back and home to like-minded people concerned about environment, alternate energy sources, natural foods and intellectual stimulation. Old hippies is a term of endearment.
We arrived around 5 and Bob and I were so glad to see Kai. It had been too long. It didn't take long to remember her sparkling eyes and gentle laugh. We schlepped all of our bags into their home. It was nice to be in a home setting. Using a stove, opening a refrigerator, having a meal at a dining room table and going into a yard were things I didn't realize I missed. Since we had been sitting all day in the car it was only natural that we needed to walk off some of that stiffness. Wally had warned me before our trip that they do things outdoors, regardless of the weather, and to bring rain gear. I am glad we did. Our first walk through Corvallis was just a neighborhood walk. One they obviously have done numerous times. It was getting dark and was raining pretty good by then. Our walk was not cut short, though, and the moisture actually felt good. Everything is so green and the flower species are abundant and well-manicured. We stopped by the alternative food Co-op where Wally and Kai do most of their food shopping. After picking up some essentials it was time to head home. I was pretty soaked by this time and was amused at how I never really enjoyed going out into the rain until tonight. I have come to terms with the fact that I won't be coming home with a vacation tan.
Sunday, June 5, 2011
They Grow Them Big Here
A little info first. Sequoia sempervirens, aka Coast Redwood, loosely translates to "ever living", according to some brochure I picked up. Redwoods are among the oldest living things. Fossil records show that redwoods grew naturally in many places across the Northern Hemisphere 150 million years ago. Due to climate change and other factors the coast redwood now grows in a narrow 40-mile wide, 500-mile strip of Pacific Coast from Big Sur to southern Oregon. Most mature trees are 500 to 800 years old. I saw one that was said to be 1600 years. They are so immense that they basically live in 3 climatic zones. The base of the tree, the stem and the crown. The needles are different in lower and upper canopies.One coast redwood in northern California was measured at almost 380 feet. Redwoods need a great amount of moisture. Large rainfall amounts and being located in the fog belt assist here. Fog condenses on the leaves and needles and drips to the forest floor and replenishes water that these trees loose to evaporation and transpiration. Redwoods can release up to 500 gallons of water into the air each day through the transpiration of moisture from the leaves to the atmosphere.
As we left San Francisco we knew we wanted to go and see these magnificent giants. My brother is a wealth of knowledge on all places we have already seen and will see. I am constantly in awe of his ability to remember places he may have been only once and the information on the land we visit.
Obviously, there are dedicated state parks along the Pacific coast in which to view redwood stands. Some are better than others, being less crowded with tourists (of which I admit I am one). Our first stop would be Muir Woods National Monument. It was named for the conservationist John Muir. The road signs indicated that the parking lots were full so we were directed to a parking lot on the highway and a shuttle bus up to the Woods. It was drizzling when we left San Francisco and was still lightly raining as we stood in line for our shuttle. The bus ride to Muir took me by surprise as it was about 30 minutes up a very winding, narrow mountain road where construction was being done near the top and only one lane was getting through. Our bus had to move very close to the mountain edge on a curve and its back tires lightly scraped the mountain. Be still my heart. Muir Woods was very crowded as it was the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend. However, there are unpaved trails to be taken and the 3 of us set out to do one of those. It will be forever difficult to explain or capture in a camera shot these gi-normous trees. I didn't realize then that I was seeing just the beginning of many awe inspiring forests. We left Muir in the heavy rain. I did not look forward to the bus ride down the mountain. We obviously survived to head on to our next destination. It was late in the afternoon and we had talked about wine tasting in Napa or Sonoma but the hour had passed when any of the wineries were open so we were satisfied to just drive through these beautiful valleys of rolling hills planted on all sides with grape vineyards not yet ready for harvest. These was no shortage of wine, however, wherever we went. Being from Pennsylvania and "liquor stores", I still have a hard time when I walked into a CVS or deli and the wine selection rivals anything I see at home.
The next day we headed out to see more of what was becoming my favorite sight in nature. In talking about the Redwood tree it would be unfair to not mention the Douglas Fir, an equally amazing giant of a species for which I don't have any specifics except to say they are also exquisite.
We got our usual early start and headed to Hendy Woods State Park. Another trail walk viewing the forest of trees but this time the trees were getting even larger but the crowds were much smaller. We did a nice trail through old-growth redwoods. Located a little further inland,, the park is slightly warmer and a little less foggy than parks along the coast. Some of the trees here are more than 300 feet tall and close to 1,000 years old.
We broke with the forest viewing and stopped at Mendicino, a tiny woodframe village known for its Cape Cod architecture. It is considered one of the prettiest towns on the coast and has been filmed for numerous movies and TV shows. It is an artists' and writers' community and is an upscale escape for the working people of San Francisco. It was a beautiful sight to again see the Pacific Ocean from high above the cliffs and we watched people in wetsuits navigate the waters for wind surfing. After hitting the local beanery for great coffee (becoming my second favorite drink on this trip), we headed out for the road and Humboldt Redwoods State Park.
Humboldt County is home to some of the largest stands of old growth redwoods. There are two large parks to view the forest. We were going to Humboldt State Park and Founder's Grove within that park. Something I read referred to the groves of redwoods as a natural cathedral. There is definitely a sense of peace and reverence as you pass among these giants and the soft ground below filled with aisles of ferns, moss and many other species of forest flora. We traveled a short distance along the infamous Avenue of the Giants, a 31-mile avenue winding through a series of impressive old growth groves.
Walking through any of the forests of redwoods, I was constantly amazed at not only what you could view looking up but what lay on the forest floor. As these giants get older, some can no longer withstand winds and rain and they give up their spot in the sun and fall to the forest floor. Their roots are shallow (approximately 13 feet deep) but can spread a hundred feet laterally. They intertwine and graft on to one another, helping to hold each other up. There are clusters of "families" as new trees are started not just by seeds from fallen cones but from burls, which are knobby bumps of dormant buds which may grow into shoots. Dead trees are essential to the health of the forest. They are a substantial reservoir of organic matter and water that other plants and trees depend on. As they die and decay (which can take up to 400 years), they are recycled to the living forest becoming a nursery for plants. It has been estimated that there are 1700 species of plants and animals that depend on a tree during its life span and over 4,000 species living in or on a downed log. This is how the forest is efficient by feeding itself and wasting nothing. We stood by fallen trees, such as the Dyerville Giant, which may have stood for as long as 1600 years and was taller, larger and older than any other tree around it. It fell in March 1991. It was assumed to weigh over 1,000,000 pounds. It was heard by a park neighbor when it fell and he thought there had been a train wreck. The groves of redwoods and firs that we have seen are filled with fallen trees. Each one amazes me with its size and the amount of plant life living in and on it. Some of the root balls on the forest floor are stories high. Again, unable to truly capture this in words or pictures.
Our California part of this trip was coming to an end as we headed north towards Oregon, new adventures and my sister-in-law. All of this was becoming more exciting as we drove north.
As we left San Francisco we knew we wanted to go and see these magnificent giants. My brother is a wealth of knowledge on all places we have already seen and will see. I am constantly in awe of his ability to remember places he may have been only once and the information on the land we visit.
Obviously, there are dedicated state parks along the Pacific coast in which to view redwood stands. Some are better than others, being less crowded with tourists (of which I admit I am one). Our first stop would be Muir Woods National Monument. It was named for the conservationist John Muir. The road signs indicated that the parking lots were full so we were directed to a parking lot on the highway and a shuttle bus up to the Woods. It was drizzling when we left San Francisco and was still lightly raining as we stood in line for our shuttle. The bus ride to Muir took me by surprise as it was about 30 minutes up a very winding, narrow mountain road where construction was being done near the top and only one lane was getting through. Our bus had to move very close to the mountain edge on a curve and its back tires lightly scraped the mountain. Be still my heart. Muir Woods was very crowded as it was the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend. However, there are unpaved trails to be taken and the 3 of us set out to do one of those. It will be forever difficult to explain or capture in a camera shot these gi-normous trees. I didn't realize then that I was seeing just the beginning of many awe inspiring forests. We left Muir in the heavy rain. I did not look forward to the bus ride down the mountain. We obviously survived to head on to our next destination. It was late in the afternoon and we had talked about wine tasting in Napa or Sonoma but the hour had passed when any of the wineries were open so we were satisfied to just drive through these beautiful valleys of rolling hills planted on all sides with grape vineyards not yet ready for harvest. These was no shortage of wine, however, wherever we went. Being from Pennsylvania and "liquor stores", I still have a hard time when I walked into a CVS or deli and the wine selection rivals anything I see at home.
The next day we headed out to see more of what was becoming my favorite sight in nature. In talking about the Redwood tree it would be unfair to not mention the Douglas Fir, an equally amazing giant of a species for which I don't have any specifics except to say they are also exquisite.
We got our usual early start and headed to Hendy Woods State Park. Another trail walk viewing the forest of trees but this time the trees were getting even larger but the crowds were much smaller. We did a nice trail through old-growth redwoods. Located a little further inland,, the park is slightly warmer and a little less foggy than parks along the coast. Some of the trees here are more than 300 feet tall and close to 1,000 years old.
We broke with the forest viewing and stopped at Mendicino, a tiny woodframe village known for its Cape Cod architecture. It is considered one of the prettiest towns on the coast and has been filmed for numerous movies and TV shows. It is an artists' and writers' community and is an upscale escape for the working people of San Francisco. It was a beautiful sight to again see the Pacific Ocean from high above the cliffs and we watched people in wetsuits navigate the waters for wind surfing. After hitting the local beanery for great coffee (becoming my second favorite drink on this trip), we headed out for the road and Humboldt Redwoods State Park.
Humboldt County is home to some of the largest stands of old growth redwoods. There are two large parks to view the forest. We were going to Humboldt State Park and Founder's Grove within that park. Something I read referred to the groves of redwoods as a natural cathedral. There is definitely a sense of peace and reverence as you pass among these giants and the soft ground below filled with aisles of ferns, moss and many other species of forest flora. We traveled a short distance along the infamous Avenue of the Giants, a 31-mile avenue winding through a series of impressive old growth groves.
Walking through any of the forests of redwoods, I was constantly amazed at not only what you could view looking up but what lay on the forest floor. As these giants get older, some can no longer withstand winds and rain and they give up their spot in the sun and fall to the forest floor. Their roots are shallow (approximately 13 feet deep) but can spread a hundred feet laterally. They intertwine and graft on to one another, helping to hold each other up. There are clusters of "families" as new trees are started not just by seeds from fallen cones but from burls, which are knobby bumps of dormant buds which may grow into shoots. Dead trees are essential to the health of the forest. They are a substantial reservoir of organic matter and water that other plants and trees depend on. As they die and decay (which can take up to 400 years), they are recycled to the living forest becoming a nursery for plants. It has been estimated that there are 1700 species of plants and animals that depend on a tree during its life span and over 4,000 species living in or on a downed log. This is how the forest is efficient by feeding itself and wasting nothing. We stood by fallen trees, such as the Dyerville Giant, which may have stood for as long as 1600 years and was taller, larger and older than any other tree around it. It fell in March 1991. It was assumed to weigh over 1,000,000 pounds. It was heard by a park neighbor when it fell and he thought there had been a train wreck. The groves of redwoods and firs that we have seen are filled with fallen trees. Each one amazes me with its size and the amount of plant life living in and on it. Some of the root balls on the forest floor are stories high. Again, unable to truly capture this in words or pictures.
Our California part of this trip was coming to an end as we headed north towards Oregon, new adventures and my sister-in-law. All of this was becoming more exciting as we drove north.
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
City Experience
So, apparently a week in the City by the Bay goes very quickly. San Francisco is everyone's favorite city. Its visual appeal has a lot to do with this. It is built on a series of hills that not only help create an interesting architectural environment but also allows glimpses of San Francisco Bay, the Golden Gate or the Pacific Ocean, as the city itself if surrounded on three sides by water. We three had a week filled with food, drink, lots of walking and more food, drink and lots of walking. Luckily, we all like to do pretty much the same thing. We are a family who really enjoys the outdoors.
Our first full day was spent biking from Fisherman's Wharf across the Golden Gate Bridge, down an incredible hill to Sausalito, lunch and the ferry (with our bikes in tow) across the Bay back to the wharf. We had taken the cable car to the Wharf but decided to walk back to our respective hotels. When I say that most of the streets in San Francisco are steep you cannot even imagine how steep they actually are. There are streets where no cars are allowed due to the incline.. so for people who live at the top of the hill, there are steps built into the sidewalks. The steepest grade can be 31.5%!!!! We walked the length of Hyde St. towards home and it was no easy feat. I am very happy now for all the hours spent at the gym. It was definitely quite the workout. That walk home was the first of many, many miles spent exploring the city on foot.
Bob and I were on our own the next day as my brother was attending his lectures in emergency medicine. The morning was lightly raining so we decided it was finally time to hit a laundromat. By the time that task was completed the skies had cleared. We took the bus out to Alamo Square, home of the famous Painted Ladies. A block of very large, very ornate victorian homes made famous in many movie scenes but probably most notably the opening scenes for the TV show Full House (remember the cute little Olsen twins). Actually, most of the surrounding neighborhood homes were of victorian architecture and were all charming. We met up with Wally for dinner and more walking. I'm am hoping all this walking is counter-acting all the food and wine I am consuming. I love big cities!!
Wally joined us Thursday for the day (playing hooky??) We started our day at Dottie's True Blue Cafe. The 45-minute wait for breakfast in a little neighborhood place was well worth the wait. Fresh squeezed juices, fresh produce and a spicy, veggie frittata was a great way to start our day. We walked to Telegraph Hill and the Coit Tower. There were literally hundreds of wooden steps up to the top of a hill to the Tower, a structure dedicated the the fireman of San Francisco. That was a tough climb, but the rewards at the top with the view was worth it all. We also visited City Lights Bookstore. A hang out made famous by the likes of Kerowac and Ginsberg. So....we walked home, of course. It was early because Bob and I had dinner plans with his cousin who lives outside the city. Had a great evening of Italian food in North Beach and conversation with family we don't get to see often.
Friday was our last full day in this fabulous, vibrant city. Wally was attending his lectures so Bob and I boarded a bus and headed out to the Golden Gate Park. This park is one of the largest in the world and has over 1,000 acres of botanical gardens. The main objective was the Japanese Tea Garden. It was a lovely area of well manicured trees and ponds with an place to sit and partake in a cup of some unusual teas. We had plans to see other sites but were growing restless and decided to just walk some of the sidewalk trails enjoying the beautiful weather and outdoors. We grabbed a bus and headed to 21st Amendment Brewery, a stop we didn't want to miss. Although I am not a beer drinker, I have spent enough time with Bob and my kids to know how breweries and their brews can be interesting and worth investigating. What was supposed to be a short walk from the bus turned out to be a very long walk and I was glad to sit at a bar and have some light fare. I even tasted several of the sampler beers Bob got. We were going to grab a cab back to the hotel but were able to hop a bus right to our front door. That night was filled with laughter and more good food as we had tickets to see a San Francisco icon, Beach Blanket Babylon, the "world's longest running musical revue". It is complete with pop and political spoofs, great music and singing and cast members who wear ridiculously large hats, some of which contain the complete San Francisco skyline. An Italian dinner afterwards and, of course, a walk home. Wally stopped by our hotel first and we hit the bar on the second floor. Bob and I had heard the noise from there every evening but never ventured in until now. Very loud, very urban and upscale but fun. Last night in the city was fab.
Our first full day was spent biking from Fisherman's Wharf across the Golden Gate Bridge, down an incredible hill to Sausalito, lunch and the ferry (with our bikes in tow) across the Bay back to the wharf. We had taken the cable car to the Wharf but decided to walk back to our respective hotels. When I say that most of the streets in San Francisco are steep you cannot even imagine how steep they actually are. There are streets where no cars are allowed due to the incline.. so for people who live at the top of the hill, there are steps built into the sidewalks. The steepest grade can be 31.5%!!!! We walked the length of Hyde St. towards home and it was no easy feat. I am very happy now for all the hours spent at the gym. It was definitely quite the workout. That walk home was the first of many, many miles spent exploring the city on foot.
Bob and I were on our own the next day as my brother was attending his lectures in emergency medicine. The morning was lightly raining so we decided it was finally time to hit a laundromat. By the time that task was completed the skies had cleared. We took the bus out to Alamo Square, home of the famous Painted Ladies. A block of very large, very ornate victorian homes made famous in many movie scenes but probably most notably the opening scenes for the TV show Full House (remember the cute little Olsen twins). Actually, most of the surrounding neighborhood homes were of victorian architecture and were all charming. We met up with Wally for dinner and more walking. I'm am hoping all this walking is counter-acting all the food and wine I am consuming. I love big cities!!
Wally joined us Thursday for the day (playing hooky??) We started our day at Dottie's True Blue Cafe. The 45-minute wait for breakfast in a little neighborhood place was well worth the wait. Fresh squeezed juices, fresh produce and a spicy, veggie frittata was a great way to start our day. We walked to Telegraph Hill and the Coit Tower. There were literally hundreds of wooden steps up to the top of a hill to the Tower, a structure dedicated the the fireman of San Francisco. That was a tough climb, but the rewards at the top with the view was worth it all. We also visited City Lights Bookstore. A hang out made famous by the likes of Kerowac and Ginsberg. So....we walked home, of course. It was early because Bob and I had dinner plans with his cousin who lives outside the city. Had a great evening of Italian food in North Beach and conversation with family we don't get to see often.
Friday was our last full day in this fabulous, vibrant city. Wally was attending his lectures so Bob and I boarded a bus and headed out to the Golden Gate Park. This park is one of the largest in the world and has over 1,000 acres of botanical gardens. The main objective was the Japanese Tea Garden. It was a lovely area of well manicured trees and ponds with an place to sit and partake in a cup of some unusual teas. We had plans to see other sites but were growing restless and decided to just walk some of the sidewalk trails enjoying the beautiful weather and outdoors. We grabbed a bus and headed to 21st Amendment Brewery, a stop we didn't want to miss. Although I am not a beer drinker, I have spent enough time with Bob and my kids to know how breweries and their brews can be interesting and worth investigating. What was supposed to be a short walk from the bus turned out to be a very long walk and I was glad to sit at a bar and have some light fare. I even tasted several of the sampler beers Bob got. We were going to grab a cab back to the hotel but were able to hop a bus right to our front door. That night was filled with laughter and more good food as we had tickets to see a San Francisco icon, Beach Blanket Babylon, the "world's longest running musical revue". It is complete with pop and political spoofs, great music and singing and cast members who wear ridiculously large hats, some of which contain the complete San Francisco skyline. An Italian dinner afterwards and, of course, a walk home. Wally stopped by our hotel first and we hit the bar on the second floor. Bob and I had heard the noise from there every evening but never ventured in until now. Very loud, very urban and upscale but fun. Last night in the city was fab.
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
Gone but not Forgotten
I'm finding travel weird at times. When you visit an area that you think is the most magical place on Earth, you feel like you will never see or do anything quite like that again. Big Sur was that kind of experience. From our cozy cabin in the woods to hiking to see the only place in California where a waterfall plunges directly into the Pacific or hiking among ancient redwoods, it was something I find hard to describe. Big Sur is one of the most memorable sections of coastline, with 5,000-foot-tall mountains rising up out of the Pacific Ocean. Early Spanish missionaries called it El Pais Grande del Sur (the Big Country of the South) and this rugged land has resisted development. The population of 1,500 is roughly the same as it was in 1900.
That being said, we left Big Sur and headed north once again to the next destination I was really looking forward to...San Francisco and my brother. He was coming down from Oregon for a medical conference in San Francisco (all planned and timed this way on purpose) and was meeting us a few days before his conference commenced to show us the city. I have not seen him in over 2 years and was really looking forward to spending some time together. He has made many trips to San Francisco for both business and pleasure and loves this city. I was looking forward to having someone show us the ins and outs that you might not find in a book. Bob and I were also looking forward to exploring on our own as we enjoy walking neighborhoods and learning how to get around using the city's public transit system. Will let you know how all that goes.
That being said, we left Big Sur and headed north once again to the next destination I was really looking forward to...San Francisco and my brother. He was coming down from Oregon for a medical conference in San Francisco (all planned and timed this way on purpose) and was meeting us a few days before his conference commenced to show us the city. I have not seen him in over 2 years and was really looking forward to spending some time together. He has made many trips to San Francisco for both business and pleasure and loves this city. I was looking forward to having someone show us the ins and outs that you might not find in a book. Bob and I were also looking forward to exploring on our own as we enjoy walking neighborhoods and learning how to get around using the city's public transit system. Will let you know how all that goes.
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